Roadside Find: Wild Bill Hickory BBQ in Clarence

By Charlie Fashana

Published on | Last Updated

I didn’t know roadside BBQ stands were a thing. Well, come to find out, they are a big thing. In fact, many argue the best BBQ and “dining” experiences can only be found alongside the country roads.

Wild Bill Hickory Barbeque is a seasonal stand that pops up in the spring and runs through the fall. At 9840 County Road, just east of Goodrich Road in Clarence, you’ll spot the faded wooden sign adorned with a plump, pink pig. Pull on in and be ready to be amazed.

It’s all about down-home, authentic food. Nothing fancy, but Wild Bill Hickory’s has the trifecta of components essential for creating a true Southern BBQ experience.


Unbeatable BBQ

It’s serious BBQ, but Bill doesn’t take it too seriously. In his words, “fire burns wood, wood smokes meat.”

Seems pretty simple to me. I’m sure he pays attention to little things like seasoning, time, temperature, etc. When Bill isn’t preparing his pork, chicken or briskets for the day ahead, he’s tending to his pepper garden or playing around with different sauce recipes to make sure your mouth waters. He’ll play it down, but really no detail is overlooked.


The Roadside Experience

Park, order at the trailer window, eat at a picnic table. No frills here. But that’s what’s so great about it. The simplicity of it all leaves the focus on the food, which wins every time. And it’s the closest thing to that true down South experience, way up here in the Northeast.


A “Porky” Proprietor

It may sound like an insult to Bill (no, he’s not pudgy), but the moment you engage with him you’ll quickly agree it’s a more-than-fitting descriptor. The man is passionate about his craft but is just as dedicated to bestowing plentiful quips in the face of his patrons. Bill’s food may bust your trousers and he himself may split your sides.

All this, right here in our backyard (well, technically Bill’s backyard, but you get the idea). Gas up and get there!


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Charlie Fashana

At work I'm part artist, part scientist. At home I'm part husband, part dad. Here and always, I'm all Buffalo.