Zina Lapi Develops Flavor and Community at Casa Azul

Zina Lapi’s story begins in her mother’s kitchen, where homemade bread and sauces were a way of life. As the owner of Casa Azul, a literal cornerstone of Buffalo’s Allentown neighborhood, Lapi continues that tradition of care and craft, infusing her food with a commitment to quality. Her journey from a young chef to a restaurant owner is a tale of grit, vision, and dedication to doing things her way, even when easier options were available.

“Because my mom’s Sicilian,” Lapi recalls. “Growing up, everything was made by hand. I remember begging her for Lunchables because all the other kids at school had them. She, of course said no. It wasn’t until much later that I realized how much that shaped my perspective on food.”

A graduate of the Johnson & Wales culinary program, Lapi returned to Buffalo post graduation after a summer in Italy. She landed in the kitchen of Mike A’s at the Hotel Lafayette, working under its executive chef Edward Forster (Waxlight Bar a Vin). Later she moved to the kitchen of Buffalo Proper, working for Forster again.

Next came a solo venture—a food truck specializing in arancini, an experience she cites as a crash course in efficiency and creativity. “I probably made sixty different varieties in one summer,” she says with a laugh. It pushed me to experiment and see how far I could take a single idea.” That spirit set the stage for Casa Azul, which opened downtown in 2015.

Taking full ownership of the restaurant after its first year in business, Lapi found clarity in the challenges she faced. “That first year was rough,” she admits. “But it truly solidified my vision. I wanted a place where every dish carried my creative stamp, where ingredients were respected, and where my team always felt valued.”

In 2021, the restaurant relocated to the corner of Allen and Elmwood. Casa Azul’s menu pays homage to Mexican cuisine, but it’s filtered through Lapi’s singular lens. The charred Caesar salad is a perfect example. “Not everyone knows, but the first Caesar salad was made by an Italian guy in Mexico. When I learned that I knew that I had to adapt it.” Her version swaps lettuce for charred brussels sprouts and cauliflower, adds candied pumpkin seeds for crunch in place of the traditional croutons, and replaces Parmesan with cotija cheese. It’s a dish that feels both familiar and new—and it’s delicious.

At the heart of Casa Azul is a dedication to scratch cooking. “We make everything from scratch,” Lapi says. “I’m always looking to bring together different influences. It’s about honoring tradition while making it my own.”

Another standout is the menu’s seasonal pescado dish. At the time of our interview, it featured cod in a corn chowder base enriched with poblano peppers and housemade tortilla chips. Today, it’s a comforting black garlic-flavored filet with a sauce of sweet onions and guajillo peppers topped with a smattering of herbed breadcrumbs. As a dish that evolves with the seasons and Lapi’s penchant for combining tradition with innovation, the pescado at Casa Azul is always a winner. 

Efficiency is an additional part of Casa Azul’s success. Lapi’s experience in small kitchens, including her food truck days, taught her to maximize space and streamline operations. “Working in confined spaces forces you to be resourceful,” she says. “Our setup is designed for efficiency, and that’s a big part of why we’re able to handle our high volumes without compromising quality.”

Managing a seasonal staff of over 40 employees, especially during the peak summer season, requires a deft touch. Lapi’s approach blends empathy with pragmatism, ensuring her team’s cohesion even during the busiest times. “I’ve learned to address issues immediately but calmly,” she explains. “It’s about honest communication and finding solutions together.” Many of her staff have been with her for years.

From handmade tortillas and inventive takes on classic dishes to how she cares for her team and guests, every detail reflects Lapi’s vision and values. Casa Azul celebrates flavor and creativity while proving that Lapi’s thoughtful approach to food and leadership are a recipe for success.

Casa Azul
191 Allen Street, Buffalo, NY
casaazulbuffalo.com